From Mountains to River Banks

Zhangjiajie in Hunan is mostly mountains with sheer sides while Guilin is located in Guangxi province through which the River Li flows.

My first trip to Guilin was more than 20 years ago when China was just opening up and this second trip saw many changes. Many buildings and multi-storey apartments are sprouting everywhere.

There is a “People’s Walking Street” ( pedestrian mall ) with trendy boutiques and bars to cater to tourists both local and foreign.

 Beneath the large central square lies hundreds of shops known to the locals as “Little Hong Kong”. They sell clothing, shoes and bags. Two glass pyramids are the entrances to this underground mall.

 We saw senior citizens waving pink fans, marching, rehearsing to the clash of cymbals and drums in this wide open square.

 Another photo stop was a man-made lake, home to twin copper pagodas, the Sun and Moon Pagodas standing serene in their water bed.

Another scenic spot showcased the Zig Zag bridge or bridge with nine turns.

 Close by was another bridge which is a favorite spot for bridal couples.

 A short boat ride along the River Li took us past the Elephant Trunk Hill.

 This ride was very different from the one my siblings and I took together with my late father. We had boarded the boat from Guilin to go down the River Li to Yangshuo, a small town two hours away. Along the way, small boats came alongside to sell us their wares and my father bought big red Chinese paper fans for us as souvenirs. This time, no such boats were in evidence.

 The river did not seem to be as pristine as it used to be although in some parts, the water was still clear. However the scenery along the river banks is still lovely, with reflections of the karst hills.

It was quite a change from Zhangjiajie.

Caves, Zhangjiajie

Where there are mountains, there are caves. So it was no surprise that a visit to a cave was part of our itinerary.

 Before we made our way to the entrance of the cave, we were advised to go to the toilet first.  This was a small building built on the side of a hill and we had to climb up a flight of stairs to access it. The toilets were all squatting toilets. Unfortunately, the chest high doors had no locks so you can imagine having to hold onto the door while easing yourself.

 A short walk led us to where the cave was. We had to go down a steep flight of steps into the dark interior.

 Once inside, the wet and slippery steps cut into the floor had to be negotiated carefully.  In some parts, there were railings to hold onto so that we wouldn’t fall into a dark chasm. Quite a frightful experience, it was.

 The guide pointed out the clusters of stalactites and stalagmites in the cavernous chambers that we walked through. Some of the steps were steep as we descended further and further.  Spotlights highlighted some clusters.

 I was more than glad to get out of the cave, even though it was a steep ascent back to the mouth and into the daylight.

This particular cave is a huge one with many levels but it being a wet and rainy day, we were more than satisfied to visit the first level.

Highlights of Zhangjiajie

Zhangjiajie is a mountainous area famous for its scenic beauty. The sheer walls of the mountains all around you are awesome.

An extraordinary experience was going up in the world’s highest and fastest elevator to the top of a mountain. This is the Bai Long elevator located in the Wulingyuan Scenic Area.

 Another first is the 7.2 km long cable car ride which takes you close to the top of yet another mountain. This ride lasted 35 minutes and the climb is very steep in some places. Some people were afraid to look down as we soared upwards, leaving the safety of the ground behind us. To me it was exhilarating, looking at the tree tops below us as we climbed higher and higher.

 A very famous feature in Zhangjiajie is the Tianmenshan where the Tienmen Cave is located. This natural hole in the mountain is atop 999 steps. Climbing it is a feat for the young with sturdy legs. Fighter jets have soared through this huge opening.

 To get up to this Tienman Cave you have to take a small bus ( 25 seater ) which goes through 99 hairpin bends. The bus drivers are skillful and know the bends very well as they drive up and down daily, many, many times bringing up loads of tourists and sending them down to the cable car station which will then take them down the mountain.

  The only thing between you and a drop into a “bottomless” ravine are blocks of concrete placed a few feet apart except for the curves where there is a solid low concrete wall.

  Nearby is the world famous cliff side walk and glass platform, which is not for those who suffer from vertigo or who have a fear of heights.

 To walk along the glass platform which is a misnomer since it is not a platform but rather a narrow walkway made of glass, one has to slip on bootees over one’s shoes so as not to scratch it, I believe. It is quite a heady experience, looking into tree tops and nothingness.

 Zhangjiajie is a lovely place to visit but you need to be patient for there are long queues to these places of interest. You also need a strong pair of legs!