The North Borneo Railway runs a twice weekly steam train with a wood-fueled engine from Tg Aru Railway station in Kota Kinabalu to Papar, a small town 38.5 kilometers away.
This steam engine or locomotive was built by the Vulcan Foundry in England in 1954. The one we rode in was a Vulcan 6-016 engine which runs on steam fueled by wood shoveled into the firebox from the locomotive tender.
It has green livery with polished boiler bands while the running plate and tender frame have red edging. This steam engine is named “Kota Kinabalu City” in honor of the town achieving city status. It has five carriages which were restored to reflect the era of the steam train. Each carriage is named after a town along the route, beginning with Tg Aru, Putatan, Kinarut, Kawang and Papar. Every carriage has its own washroom and the carriage can accommodate 16 passengers. There is also a Pullman carriage which serves as the kitchen and holds a generator as well.
Each carriage has high-powered ceiling fans which provide passengers with maximum comfort in the warm weather.
The Tg Aru railway station platform had small trestle boards posting information about each town, its history and its current status.
My grandchildren and I were allocated table 7 in the Papar carriage. The carriages have wide open windows which facilitated the taking of photographs as the train meandered its way through the countryside and scenic beaches, passing the small towns of Putatan, Kinarut and Kawang before its destination Papar.
Kinarut was the first stop and passengers alighted to visit the Shim Shen Tsui Temple, which has a 20 foot smiling Buddha and 18 statues of Buddhist monks in its vicinity. Giant incense coils give off a pungent aroma at the entrance of the temple.
Along the route to Kawang, there are mangrove swamps, fruit orchards and nurseries.
After Kawang, the train went through the Pengalat Tunnel, 450 meters long, built in early 1900 by the British.
Our final destination was Papar, where despite its growth, still retains its unique old wooden shop houses. Before we entered the town we had to cross a steel trestle bridge built over the Papar River.
It was fascinating to watch the engine being turned round on a turn-table so that it could lead the carriages back to Tg Aru Railway station.
Breakfast was served as we departed Tg Aru station. We were served a welcome drink of ice-lemon tea before a continental breakfast of croissants and Danish pastries, washed down with a cup of aromatic local coffee ( or tea )
Lunch was served in tiffin carriers just before we left Papar. The food was delicious, served in the four-tiered tiffin carrier.
The train stewards were dressed in white period style uniforms with khaki shorts and colonial white pith helmets.
The tables were well-set for each meal and the service was excellent.
This train journey is an experience not to be missed.
